August 24, 2012

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Tshirts by the Pound

20 pounds of tshirts looks like this!
This is what 20+ pounds of tshirts looks like. Yoda, Cookie Monster, the Grinch and a few Disney Princesses all found their way into the haul :)

 

Tshirts by the pound. That's what happened this week. I came home with nearly 25 pounds of tshirts after a trip to the Goodwill Outlet with my friend Luci from Idle Hands Yarn Supply (she makes yarn from old tshirts). 

 

I'm so excited to dig in and start making some undies with my bounty- buying them by the pound rather than the piece helped me take chances on some undies that I wouldn't have considered otherwise. Mostly little kids' tshirts that would normally be too small, but not this time!
Super fun kids tees from the Goodwill Outlet. They can't wait to turn into undies!
Some of the super cute kids' tshirts I found at the Goodwill Outlet. Normally, these would have been too small for me to consider bringing home :)
 
Coincidentally, I'm reading Overdressed:  The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth L. Cline. It's about fast fashion (think H&M, Zara, Forever 21, Walmart, Costco, Target, etc...) and what happens to all the clothes we buy, the impact on the global economy and American jobs, the environment, and the change in our collective psyche about clothing over the past few decades. I highly recommend it! 
 
Anyway, there's a great chapter about all the clothes we donate to Goodwill and the Salvation Army. I learned that they never want for clothing donations.
Apparently, most of the clothing in stores doesn't get sold to customers, rather it gets rotated off the sales floor after a month or so, and is then sold to textile recyclers (who make rags or chair stuffing, etc.), or sold overseas, often to sub-Saharan Africa (who, she notes is getting more fashion-forward and pickier about what they'll pay for).
 
This way the charity is still making money off of garments they couldn't sell. She talks about the "clothing deficit myth" that most of us believe (including me, until reading about it) that "some person in need" would value our castoff clothing (p.s. It makes me feel awkward to say "some person in need" out loud).
 
For that reason, until this week, I never chose the best tshirts at the Goodwill- I saved them for "someone who needed them" or someone who get some good use out of them before passing it back to the Goodwill for me to find. 
 
Well. Not anymore.
 
If they're likely going to end up as rags anyway, they might as well end up as fabulous Kori-made underwear. :)
 
So I'm excited to not have to be as picky at the Goodwill, and digging through bins and bins of clothing at the outlet with Luci was a ton of fun.  A little competitive (but we look for different things in a tshirt... :)), and a great exercise in teamwork.  :) 
 
How about you? Any reactions to Cline's research or ideas? Are you a thrift store regular (donor or patron)? Please comment below! xoxo

August 17, 2012

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A Tale of Custom Underwear: Upitees Meet Vulvodynia


Drea's first ever bespoke undies. She and I discovered that a lot of organic cotton tshirts are chocolate brown... :)

 

Do you have a pretty predictable fit challenge?  Like you can pretty much count on something usually being too long, too short, too anything?  For my client Drea, there was one fit challenge with underwear in particular that she could absolutely count on (until she met me :)).  Let's actually start at the end, with her delighted testimonial:


I am a very picky customer. Kori worked with me tirelessly and very graciously to create a set of undies that are absolutely perfect for me. They fit me perfectly and are perfectly comfortable. And I do mean PERFECT! I have dealt with the pain of Vulvodynia for many years and up until I found Kori, I had never worn a pair of underwear that did not cause me pain. Those days are over. It’s Kori and her bespoke undies forevermore!
-Drea

Can I tell you what an honor it has been to work with her?  After back-and-forthing for months and several iterations of "this works, let's tweak that," I couldn't have been more tickled to hear that we finally got her perfect pair of underwear right! Before Drea messaged me, I hadn't heard of Vulvodynia

I learned quickly.

It's a condition of chronic pain in Ladytown with no known cause. Degrees of pain vary among women who suffer from the condition, but wearing underwear poses a serious challenge. 

Like Drea said,
she had never worn a pair of underwear before that did not cause her pain.  Never!  It totally hurts my heart. So, cautiously optimistic, we embarked together on a journey to craft the perfect pair of underwear.

She was excited about mine because the boy-cut's center panel was fully lined to the waist (no uncomfortable ridges where the lining ended in a sensitive area). We talked about fabrics, and I found some soft organic cotton tshirts (best to avoid anything that might have been treated with a harsh or unnatural pesticide). I emailed her photos of some different options, and moved forward with the one she chose. I made a pair with a little higher rise, per her specifications, and sent them her way. 
I waited anxiously. She got back to me after a few wears. They were good, but she needed to cut the lining out, and the elastic bunched uncomfortably around the front part of the legholes. Did I have any ideas? 

Drea bought another pair. This time, no lining, and with extra care paid to how the elastic was put in. Better. But something was still off. And then! (I always have my best ideas while running or in the shower.  Never running in the shower, but one or the other.  :)) I realized we could pre-shrink the elastic and then sew it in so that it didn't bunch around the front half of the leg hole. 
Drea loved the idea, so she bought another pair. And could I cut the waist a little bit lower on these? Of course. And maybe shave off a little bit of the fullness from the buns? Definitely.  And guess what? They were perfect! 
Finally! Eureka! 
Working on so many pairs, Drea and I developed some new prints for the shop, like this bumblebee!
Shortly thereafter, she mailed me back the previous pairs. This week I'm taking them apart to put the elastic back in and take the waist down just a tad. 

And with that, Drea will have a drawerful of undies that fit her perfectly and don't cause her pain. Glorious. This has meant so much more to both Drea and I than than just a few pairs of underwear. 
For her, I know, it's something she's never had. For me it's this incredible opportunity to  be a part of that joy and gratitude. To craft something special for one woman and her specific needs (no lining, higher waist, less curvaceous bottom and all).

I feel honored by her having shared such an intimate part of her life with me. And the more I learn about other fit challenges— wide hips, narrow hips, extreme petiteness, curvy girl-ness, big booty, no booty, front pouch, strong thighs— the more committed I am to providing a super high quality product, and a safe space to explore what works best for a woman's unique and beautiful-in-every-shape body.

I love the process, the relationships, and the opportunity to create underwear as unique and cheeky as the women who wear them. 

For more about what I do and why, check out my malleable manifesto.  :) 

So. If you've ever had a pair (or a drawer full) of undies that haven't fit you the way you would like, I'd love to hear from you. Comment below with a horror (or less horrific) story. Or send an email my way if you're curious about embarking on your own bespoke underwear journey :) 
xoxo

July 23, 2012

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Etsy's Front Page!

Ohmygoodness!  So exciting- a pair of my undies were featured on Etsy Australia's front page on Saturday afternoon! Woot woot!

Can you spot the Upitees?

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July 20, 2012

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Holy Mending! (Or is it hole-y?) - Part 1

Dear readers! Week 8 and the Summer Sewing Tutorial Series is wrapping up! Thanks so much for being a part of it! 

I'm looking forward to sharing more about the day to days of business owning and growing and funning and sillying as summer turns to fall, but I'm excited for one last tutorial today (well, part 1 of 2... :)). 

About how to fix the holes that magically (or not so magically) appear in our favorite garments. There are a few different categories of holes that I've recognized (though this list certainly isn't comprehensive):

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July 13, 2012

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Button, Button, You've Got the Button

And after this, you'll know how to sew it on! :) 

Dear reader! The warm weather has finally come to Seattle (I know most of the U.S. has been sweltering for weeks, but I cannot tell you how happy I am to have 3 days in a row sunny and 80 degrees. I love the sun waaaay too much to be in the Pacific Northwest. :) How's a girl supposed to photosynthesize? :) 

Today we conquer the button! Shank buttons, sew-through buttons (the kind with 2 or 4 holes)- you name it, it's getting put somewhere! 
So, without further ado, I invite you to join me, my trench coat and some pretty fabulous pink sparkly buttons. We're sewing these puppies on! 
How to sew a button with Kori from La Vie en Orange 
And the finished product!
The finished product 
I am ready for whatever the world sends my way with these sassy pink buttons!
Where are you putting your buttons? Please comment below! xoxo

July 06, 2012

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Presto Change-o Shopping Bag! - Part 2

Continued from Part 1...On to Step 2!  Bag Bottom Corners Next you're going to fold your bag bottom so that it lays flat like a triangle on one side- see the image below, or check out this video where Zac walks you through it.

  • Take a ruler and find the spot on the hypotenuse/longest leg of the triangle (hello 10th grade geometry :)) that is 4.5" long.
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July 05, 2012

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Presto Change-o Shopping Bag! Part 1

Before and after! :)

You made it!  Week 6 of our Summer Sewing Tutorial SeriesMaking our shopping bag!  

We've waited so long to get here, let's just dive in! :) Husbie Zac will be our guinea pig and model again this week. So, without further ado...

Grab your pattern pieces from week 4 when we cut our pattern out. Remember these?

Zac with his cut out pattern pieces! What do yours look like?

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June 29, 2012

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You want me to put that thread where?!? Or, threading your sewing machine

Oh man! The weeks march on and now here we are- how to thread your machine! Are you ready? I know you can do it! 

So just like in last week's diagram about the parts of a sewing machine, although each machine will be threaded in a slightly different way, they are all fairly similar. 

 

Your sewing machine's manual should have a diagram (and you'll likely be able to find the manual for your sewing machine by googling), but I'll show you how mine works below both in photos and with a video.

 

Let's start with the bobbin! The bobbin lives under the needle and feed dogs and all the glory that happens under the fabric. I happen to have two machines whose bobbins load very differently, so I'll show you both. 

 

But first things first- we need to wind the bobbin. Though you can wrap your bobbins by hand (just be sure not to wind it so tight that you stretch the thread or do it so loosely that you have saggy thread), most machines will wind your bobbins for you

 

Side note:  There are a few different size bobbins; your machine will have bobbins that fit it specifically. My two machines have two different size bobbins. See if you notice a difference in the videos below. :)

 

Let's check out how my newer machine works:
In this video, Kori from La Vie en Orange shows you how to wind a bobbin.

 

Yours will probably be pretty similar.  Check your manual for any quirks- I know on my older machine, you have to turn a knob inside the handwheel for the bobbin to wind. Quirks!  :) 

 

So now we have a threaded bobbin. Where to put it?  

Check out the videos below for two common, yet very different, bobbin casings.  Which one does yours look like? 
How to thread a removable bobbin case | La Vie en Orange

 

How to thread a drop in bobbin case | La Vie en Orange Hooray!  We have just put the bobbin in!  

Now to thread the machine. 

My newer machine has some quirks, so I'll show you how to thread on my older machine. Check out the YouTube video for a step by step walk through (your manual will have a diagram that might be helpful as you walk through your own machine). 
How to thread a sewing machine | La Vie en Orange

 

How is your machine similar or different? So, did you do it? Any snafus? I hope this was super helpful and that you you learned a ton.

One last little side note:  Often when my machine is giving me troubles, all I need to do is re-thread it and it's happy as a clam. Keep that in mind as you work on different projects. Sometimes the only thing that's wrong is that it needs to be re-threaded...  :) And if you need a little refresher on how to change a needle, check out this video. 

 

Thanks for swinging by dear friends! I hope you feel excited about working on our shopping bag next week. 

In the meantime, if you want some practice sewing a straight line, check out this great tutorial (my first) that I made last year. You'll get lots of practice and make a cute note card to send to a friend. My husband used it to learn how to turn corners! And then he taught a friend :) 

Sign up on the homepage for an email every time I make a post- you'll get next week's sewing instructions straight to your inbox :) See you in the comments! xoxo

June 22, 2012

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Whoa. How does my sewing machine do that?

This sewing machine served me for nearly 30 years! (and my mom for 10+ years before I was even around :))

Hello hello!  How do you feel?  We've done a lot in the last few weeks- learned about what the marks on home sewing patterns mean, picked up some fabric basics including the ever illusive grainline, and just last week cut out pattern pieces for a supercute upcycled shopping bag with my husbie Zac. 

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June 15, 2012

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[Free Download] And, cut (your pattern out)!

This week, the grand unveiling of our summer sewing project!  Drumroll please!Before and After

A supersweet upcycled shopping bag!

I'm also pleased to introduce my husband Zac who wants to learn to sew (he's got big dreams of making his own camping gear).  He offered to be my guinea pig and model for this project, and he's just as excited as you are!  :)  So here we go! 
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